Not to be confused with that one Madonna song, “La Ciudad Bonita” – or the Pretty City – is named thusly because of its many parks. But it might as well get its name from the abundance of beauty surrounding it, too. Bucaramanga, or Buca for short, is situated next to Chicamocha Canyon, the second-largest canyon in the world (dwarfed only by the Grand Canyon). Chicamocha also happens to be a mecca for adventure sports enthusiasts, giving Buca a reputation as a capital for ...
Not to be confused with that one Madonna song, “La Ciudad Bonita” – or the Pretty City – is named thusly because of its many parks. But it might as well get its name from the abundance of beauty surrounding it, too. Bucaramanga, or Buca for short, is situated next to Chicamocha Canyon, the second-largest canyon in the world (dwarfed only by the Grand Canyon). Chicamocha also happens to be a mecca for adventure sports enthusiasts, giving Buca a reputation as a capital for paragliding and bungee lovers.
However, there's also no shortage of perfectly preserved colonial towns around Buca, including one – Barichara – that many tourists dub the most beautiful town in Colombia. But tourists don’t just come to Buca for Chicamocha and Barichara (though both are truly stunning). Buca is also a hotspot for nightlife, including that of the queer sort, and contains the friendliest Colombians that you’ll ever meet. Though Bucaramanga is one of the biggest cities in Colombia, it still gives off serious small-town vibes. People here want to get to know you – even if their self-described “harsh” accents make them seem like they’re mad at you. Be prepared to take multiple selfies with tour guides and museum docents, especially since La Ciudad Bonita has kicked off a larger post-pandemic initiative to boost tourism to the city.
That said, you’ll likely find the friendliest “bumangués” in Barrio Cabecera, where ex-pats and foreign tourists tend to set up shop. Floridablanca (or Florida), on the other hand, is a quieter suburb just to the south of Buca Centro that offers some of the best desserts in Colombia. It’s also a base from which you can visit Buca’s stunning botanical garden, as well as El Cerro Santísismo, which boasts the tallest Christ statue in Colombia. Meanwhile, Buca’s other suburb of Girón is considered a national heritage site for its famous white-washed colonial facades.
In addition to trying Florida’s famous “obleas,” or wafer sandwiches, you should definitely try some of Buca’s local cuisine before heading back home. The surrounding region of Santander is especially well-known for its goat meat dishes, burgers, and street food. The truly adventurous may even want to sample “hormigas,” or fried and salted ants, which the locals eat like popcorn. “Carne oreada,” or smoked and oiled meat, is also a popular traditional dish. Overall, the “santanderianos” who live in this region are proud of their local gastronomy and will readily diss Medellín’s “unsalted and gross” bandeja paisas.
Another aspect of Buca that visitors notice is its overall safety. While the nearby border with Venezuela can be dangerous, Buca and its surrounding region are rather comfortable for tourists. Pickpocketers exist, certainly, but queer couples can also exist – and without noticeable harassment. Pride events happen every June, and Buca’s Festival de Colonias in autumn – with its accompanying queer parties – is a great opportunity to hear traditional santanderiano Andean music. That said, Buca is worth a visit even if you’re just stopping by Barichara or Chicamocha Canyon. As you bask in the santanderiano spirit – and tap its deep veins of pride and independence – you’ll be grateful you stopped by this less-frequented corner of Colombia.
